China’s consumer watchdogs and state-run media are turning their spotlight on European luxury brands, signaling rising tensions between global fashion houses and the world’s second-largest economy. Iconic labels like Dior, Louis Vuitton (LV), and Hermès are facing criticism over pricing discrepancies, cultural insensitivity, and what Chinese authorities call “lack of respect” for local consumers.
The critique, which has been gaining momentum across social platforms like Weibo and Douyin, comes as China continues its broader push for economic self-reliance and cultural recognition. Chinese commentators accuse these luxury houses of exploiting the Chinese market through inflated prices, poor customer service, and tokenized representations of Chinese culture in fashion campaigns.
At the heart of the controversy is a growing sense of nationalism and a pushback against what some perceive as Western elitism. In one widely circulated post, a consumer compared the prices of a classic Dior handbag in Paris versus Shanghai, noting a markup of nearly 30%—with little justification beyond the brand name.
Louis Vuitton and Hermès, meanwhile, have been criticized for launching “limited edition” Lunar New Year collections that some netizens feel pander to stereotypes rather than genuinely honor Chinese heritage.
Chinese media outlets, including the influential CCTV, have also highlighted customer complaints of defective products and slow refund processes from major European fashion houses. The tone has shifted from adoration to scrutiny, a stark change for brands that once rode China’s luxury boom to record-breaking profits.
This shift in sentiment comes as the Chinese government promotes homegrown fashion brands and ramps up its “dual circulation” economic policy, aimed at reducing dependency on foreign companies while boosting domestic consumption.
Luxury analysts believe the message is clear: global brands must play by China’s rules—or risk losing the favor of its increasingly discerning consumers. With homegrown labels like Li-Ning and Shang Xia gaining ground and Chinese celebrities increasingly endorsing local brands, the dominance of Western fashion giants may no longer be guaranteed.
As China flexes its economic and cultural muscles, Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Hermès may have to rethink their strategies—not only to maintain market share but to avoid becoming symbolic targets in a broader geopolitical and cultural shift.