During Paris Haute Couture Week Spring/Summer 2026, designer Peet Dullaert presented a collection that examined structure, movement, and the relationship between inner and outer layers of dress. The show, held on January 29 as part of the official Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode calendar, focused on how garments can respond to the body in motion while maintaining the craftsmanship associated with couture.
Dullaert is known for balancing tailoring tradition with experimentation. This season, he explored how elements typically hidden inside garments can become visible design features. Corsetry, supports, and athletic references were reinterpreted as part of the outward aesthetic, inviting viewers to reconsider how clothing frames and interacts with the body. Rather than rigid forms, many silhouettes appeared flexible and responsive, emphasizing comfort alongside structure.
The collection included corsets in soft tones layered under jackets with black beaded fringe, as well as pencil skirts that balanced delicacy with precision. Bustier gowns incorporated open panels that revealed hand embroidery, while sheer tulle dresses were detailed with crystal motifs on silicone bases that subtly shifted with movement. Silk flaps, pleated peplums, and folded textile volumes introduced architectural elements, and tailored tuxedo variations added a familiar reference point. The palette moved through ballet pink, pale blue, and white, creating a light visual atmosphere. Accessories, including a choker inspired by an inverted crown, added a touch of symbolism without dominating the looks.
All pieces were shaped using traditional cousu main techniques, underscoring the handmade nature of couture. The garments were designed to move with the wearer, reflecting a view of couture as adaptable and contemporary rather than purely ceremonial. Lightness and flexibility were recurring themes, suggesting that refinement and ease do not have to be opposites.
The show was documented by photographer Ließen Gerne, whose images captured the reflective surfaces, layered textures, and sense of motion within the collection. The photography emphasized how details such as crystals and silk elements revealed their full effect when the garments were in movement.
Anna Stukkerts attended the presentation as a guest and also appeared as a model in the show. She wore a bespoke dress created by Dullaert for the occasion, combining structured construction with fluid draping. The piece was designed to reflect the collection’s themes of balance between control and freedom. Stukkerts shared that wearing the dress allowed her to experience how the garment adapted to movement and posture, which she found especially meaningful within the context of the show.
Her participation added a personal dimension to the presentation, illustrating how couture pieces are often developed in dialogue between designer and wearer. In a week filled with both classic and experimental showcases, Dullaert’s presentation stood out for its thoughtful approach to construction and wearability. The collection focused less on spectacle and more on how couture techniques can evolve to suit modern expectations, highlighting craftsmanship while acknowledging the changing relationship between clothing and the body.
